Day 23: Moskenesoya, Lofoten, Norway.
We lost our view pretty early on last night and were surrounded by fog for the rest of the evening. We didn’t expect to wake up to clear blue skies and an unbelievable view that we had forgotten we had! Mountains all around us, glass like water in front of us and the song of bird song as we woke…
…and lorries. We always have lorries passing us.
With the weather being so hit and miss here we like to make the most of it whilst it’s here. That means if it’s a clear sky, we’ve a mountain to climb. Todays hike was one I’d personally been looking forward to since as along as I can remember.
Hiking Ryten and to the secret beach
A few coffees later and a dreamy drive through the fjords of Lofoten we were at the trail head and had parked Doris up to the tune of 100NOK. That’s about £9.
I don’t mind paying for parking, especially when 10, maybe 5 years ago this little village welcomed little to no tourists, and now it’s literally having hundreds of cars each day drive through and cause havoc with their roads and where they’re leaving their cars.
The weather was beautiful and perfect hiking weather. We always like to start early, mainly because the crowds of people are less but also because it’s not as hot. There was a cool wind which helped.
This hike, unlike others, is a little less demanding as it covers more distance. Another 2.5KM on top of some of the other hikes meant that it was less steep, and a little more pleasant for the legs and glutes.
Beautiful from the get go, winding up and over the first small pass in the mountains. Over looking to lakes and the beach white beach below. The next park of the hike definitely kicked our ass and was more like the famous Norway hiking we’re getting accustomed too.
Before we knew it we were at the turn off for the secret beach. That or continue up to the summit of Ryten and get what can only be described as an out of this world landscape.
Kvalika beach can only be reached by hiking. As far as I’m aware it’s at least 4KM to the hike and it isn’t all that easy. What does that mean?
Untamed, untouched beauty at it’s finest. Two arctic white sand beaches with crystal clear waters washing up on their shores. Not just that but with mountains surrounding 270 degrees with the only opening being the wild and raw Norwegian Sea. Places like these aren’t meant to be real, they’re places you have to pinch yourself when you see them.
As we climbed and hiked the last section of Ryten the views just got better, and better, and better and better. It’s easy to see why this once secret beach has become an absolute goldmine for locals.
This hanging picture was just for my Mum. Ever since I started hiking, maybe 3 years ago, I always call my Mum when there is a ledge scary enough to hang off from. Usually she answers with a nice warm hello and then swiftly follows with a loud “GET AWAY FROM THAT EDGE!”
Traditional Norway: Nusfjord
We wanted to visit here last night but with the low cloud and poor visibility it was likely we’d have been disappointed. Thankfully we didn’t travel too far away from here this morning so headed back after our hike.
Nusfjord, similar to the small hiking town from above is not designed for traffic or tourists. It once was a small fishing village that was at the heart of the traditional fishing culture here in Norway. Sporting the typical red fishing cabins on stilts above the water, it’s easy to see why this place has also become somewhat a tourist destination in the last 5/10 years.
With cod racks filled with cod racks, you were never too far from forgetting that this place is still a working fishing village. Catching cod is their staple out here and they leave them to dry on these drying racks. The air temperature in the winter is the perfect drying temperature and ensures only the best of dried fish to be supplied all over the world.
We’ve only got a couple more days on the Lofoten islands before we head back to mainland Norway. Hands down one of the best adventures I’ve ever been on and I’m excited to write more about them so that you can have similar adventures of your own.
Tonights camping location: Moskenesoya, Lofoten. (Park4Night: Click Here)